17 June, Monday: Ngala Beach -> Nkhotakota Pottery Lodge

I started my day sitting on the soft sandy lakeside at 6 am watching the sun rise over the lake with the calling of Fish Eagles in the background. The morning only got better, as we were paying, B general manager of Ngala Camp in support of our cycle tour cause, offered us the night free of charge. It's been 7 days straight of cycling for me, making today the 8th and we have 94 km in front of us. With a slightly sore bum and tired legs, we still got on the saddle with big smiles and good spirits.

We cycled through fields and fields of subsistence cassava plants and saw a few people chewing on the raw roots. We cycled in yet another a very strong front wind. Everyday we think it cant get more windy and then the next day, the wind feels even worse than the day before. The wind was so strong that even going down hill was a challenge. The whole day we spent peddling, never getting a chance to give our legs a break. Todays cycle was a long tough day which felt like it just got longer and longer. But we have an amazing support team who are always coming up with new songs to keep us motivated. With Deby excitedly behind the wheel, there was never a dull moment in the car.

What we have noticed, especially being on the bicycle, is that Malawi is full of bicycles. Some bikes even have their own number plates and have been personalized with speakers and nicely decorated. They even act as taxi's here with a nice cushioned seat behind the driver. Mom decided she wants to join Chris and I on the bike so she "ordered" herself a bicycle taxi and off she went. She was trying to ask him the driver to slow down so she could "cycle" with us but the excitement got him speeding off, even getting Chris out of breath. This had us all laughing and Mom with a big smile on her face, so happy behind the local Malawian taxi driver, who was enjoying himself just as much as Mom was.

Bicycle taxi's waiting for people needing lifts

Mom catching a bike taxi

Now completely exhausted, very tired, broken legs and very sore bums after being in the saddle for over 5 and a half hours and fighting the wind for 89 km, we were ready for the day to end. We turned off towards the lake, heading for Nkhaotakota Pottery Lodge, our destination for tonight. We cycled the last 4.5 km on a rocky dirt road, passing a few homes with children outside all calling us with enthusiasm, excited to see Mzungus on bicycles.

We finally arrived to our lodge run by an interesting Afrikaans family who have recently started manging the camp and arent quite familiar with the hospitality industry. As soon as the son, David Jnr heard we were South African he brought out the klippies premium he insisted we drink on the rocks, I managed to get out of it, Chris on the other hand...gratefully drank the drink. We checked in, in the small reception/bar room is packed with tree and wild animal pottery and Chitenge (local material) dresses. After sitting on the beach, watching the bright orange moon rising over the water, we had dinner at the restaurant. After lots of confusion with the orders, we eventually got our meal and were often checked up on by David Snr, ensuring that we are ok. We all had a wonderful hot shower and a clean room on the beach, overlooking the Lake.

Cycled: 93.5 km

Time: 5:43 hrs

Ave speed: 16.3 km/hr

Ascent: 484 m