6 June, Thursday: Makambako -> Mfumbi Campsite

We had an early start to the day, desperate to get out the lodge. It was really cold, it was 13 degrees and the wind was pumping. We had our winter cycling kit on and thanks to Specialized we have winter gloves as well. We hit the morning traffic rush, watching all the people sweeping outside their stores getting ready to open for the day, school children on their bikes on their way to school.

The cycling started off amazingly and continued to be a good ride the whole day. We had the wind behind us and many downhills with short quick climbs. Within the first hour we had already done 28 km and after 2 hours of cycling we had klapped 55 km, we were on a roll this morning! Suddenly the temperature warmed up and we took off all our layers. We cycled onto a dirt road following a sign saying Mfumbi Rivervalley Campsite. We were now in dry bushveld looking into stunning hills covered in orange autmn leaves of Mopani and Thorn veld. I could smell the dry fallen leaves and hear the crunching of them as I cycled over them. We got into a valley and there lay this beautiful open space along a fast flowing river...what a magical end to a cycle. As we covered such a great distance in so little time, we had the whole day to relax and enjoy our time here.

As we started unpacking our tents, literally a truck load of 50 people arrived. It was a Muslim family coming to celebrate the end of their Ramadan. All the kids jumped out, then the adults and then of course the two sheep for lunch and a baby goat. Our first thoughts were "there goes our piece and quiet for the day". The women immediately came and introduced themselves and invited us to join in on their festivities. Mom and I embraced it and joined the women sitting on their mats on the floor while the men got the fire going sitting on their chairs. We had the most lovely unexpected afternoon celebrating the day with them. The women fell in love with us and were so overly affectionate and very excited about us joining them. They shared their food with us, we had tasty spicey rice braaied sheep we just witnesses being slaughtered. It was the first time I was ever exposed to the Muslim culture and family environment. I loved every bit of it. They made us feel so welcome. After our feast, we went for a swim in the river. The men walked further up and the women went to a pool just hidden and they all swam in their beautiful long dresses, Mom and I stayed in our cycling kit. It was so interesting and I felt so comfortable asking naive questions about their lives.

Mama Kath with our new Muslim mama friends

Waving the family off in their truck

Kayla and Maharock enjoying braai'd sheep

The elder generation couldnt speak english very well. Maharock, one lady, could speak english fluently and she explained that her parents had 8 daughters and she was the most intellegent so she got a secondary education. All the youngsters spoke english really well and communication was not a problem. I complimented her daughter, Zenah, on her beautiful dress and she said she wanted to give it to me. The women constantly told Mom and I how beautiful we are and how happy they were to have us and what a blessing is was that we were there today. As the sun started going behind the mountain, they packed up their truck and insisted that we visit them tomorrow on our way to Mbeya, as they live in a village on our way there.

We were now left alone in the campsite, only hearing the sound of the river running and the leaves blowing in the wind. Moses, the owner of the property organized a fire for us. Its been quite an adjustment for us to accept that the locals stand around watching your every move. We've come to realize that they are just waiting for you to give them something to do. We think its because they have learned that if they do chores for the guests they will receive tips. Moses sat around the fire with us, waiting. After 3 times of thanking him and letting him know that he may go, we eventually had to uncomfortably chase him way. We enjoyed our evening watching the most stars we have ever seen and keeping warm by the fire.

Bath time

Cycled: 66 km

Time: 2:43 hrs

Ave speed: 26.4 km/hr

Ascent: 270 m BUT descent: 690 m