Exploring Mkushi

8 May

We woke up to Carls coffee and delicious, again, HOME MADE rusks before we headed into town to explore the great Mkushi. Gregg did the kids school run, giving Carls a chance to spend the morning with us. We drove for about half an hour before hitting the tar road and drove a further few kms just to town, which really isnt too much. Mkushi is not a typical small town one would find in SA. There is no developed infrastructure and clean buildings. It's rural and poverty stricken but once you know where to find the best buys, youre good to go. We visited the local market which was a great experience. A long road full of shacks with all sort of things ranging from clothes to food to kitchen utilities, all cheap quality but decent condition. It was very interesting to see how most of the people in our continent live. One thing which was noticed was that not one person came up to us trying to sell their products. We didnt feel like we stuck out as white people, but rather just ordinary people walking through the market.

A chitenge material stall in the local Mkushi market

We went into the food section which was so colourful from all the tomatoes, bananas, mielies and peanuts. We also visited the local Sunshine Grocer which you shop and then create a recipe rather than find a recipe and then shop. Its got the bare minimum, meat is limited and so are fruit and veg. Whatever there is you are grateful for and whatever there isnt, you go without. By now it was time to pick the boys up from Shiloh Primary School, a VERY small school (12 kids) started just over a decade ago by an ex Zimbabwean. The school is beautiful and although limited, has made the most opportunities for the farmers children. There is a small community of expat farmers in the area who Carls and Gregg have befriended and being able to see how their lives are has really been great. The boys are lucky to grow up in this lifestyle where they get to farm and run around barefoot and everything safe. There is no racism felt amongst the black and white people, it seems as if theres a mutual respect. When we've been stopped by the police or greeted by locals, there isnt this animosity.

Gregg got back from a long day of dehorning cow bulls and we went to the dam on the farm and watched the sun set over the beautiful Zambian land. Nick was so keen on showing me around and we went exploring on the otherside. The dogs were happily splashing in the water and Todd and his friends from the compound were racing each other. It was really such a special moment. A moment when you able to take everything in and realize how amazing life is, especially this one that the Stones live. There are a lot of sacrifices but what a priviledge to have this.

We made our way back up to the house to an amazing smell of a lamb from the farm roasting in the oven. Mike, a friend from the community came over for dinner as he is also a cyclist and knows Zambia fairly well. We discussed our route and we got some good tips, he's most likely going to join us for a bit as well which will be great to have a local showing us the back routes and secret spots of beauty. Carls went all out for dinner and really treated us with roast lamb, roast potatoes, beans, gravy and then just as we thought it was over, she brought out these individual chocolate pods for us with home made ice cream. We ate like we had never eaten before and really stuffed our bellies before continuing our journey.

We packed our clean laundry, made our padkos from leftovers and had an early night. The Stones really spoiled us and it was so nice being with family and had home cooked meals. Luckily it's quite over, we'll be cycling past in just over a month!!